Happily stuck in the mud on St. Lucia
When you think of St. Lucia, no doubt the twin volcanic spires known as the Pitons are the first thing that comes to mind. But not to be overlooked is Sulphur Springs Park, home to the dormant Soufriere volcano as well as black-water pool baths whose volcano-heated, mineral-rich water is said to help reduce stress and cure rheumatism as well as psoriasis and other skin ailments.
A guided tour of the volcano enlightens the mind with a plethora of volcanic science and local history, while the mud baths stimulate the body. The experience feels primitive; as I smeared the light and dark mud on my body, the mud drawn from five-gallon buckets nearby, I envisioned people from ancient civilizations doing the same. I used the darker mud like a child might use finger paints, drawing stripes or palm prints on my body.
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After 10 minutes of letting the mud dry, I entered the 101-degree water, which has cooled from the boiling 212-degree water at the source. The baths comprise four pools, each about four feet deep, that collect the water runoff from the volcano; the farther from the source, the cooler the pool water.
I walked away from the experience feeling like a new man for a few hours — refreshed, invigorated, my skin silky smooth. While members of the group I was traveling with went for a swim in the Caribbean Sea later in the day, I abstained, not wanting to lose that smoothness.
There’s a rotten-egg smell that’s noticeable at all times in the mud baths. I didn’t find it to be particularly nauseating, and as our tour guide pointed out, it’s a good indicator that there is no seismic activity going on at Soufriere — a very reassuring fact for me. The volcano last erupted in the 1766, but scientists continue to monitor its activities.
Opened in 2004, the baths attract 18,000 visitors annually, so expect crowds. As a whole, Sulphur Springs Park draws 200,000 people every year. The park also offers guided tours, although guests are welcome to simply swim in the baths.
Located in the southwest district of Soufriere, Sulphur Springs Park is 26 miles, or an hour away, from the island’s capital of Castries. While walk-ins are welcome, tours are available from various operators, which offer packages ranging from half- and full-day outings to private excursions. Some tours include transportation to and from hotels or the Pointe Seraphine Cruise Port. Taxis and buses are also available.
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