Get to know the REAL Hong Kong with our neighbourhood guide
A city of contrasts! Get to know the REAL Hong Kong with our neighbourhood guide
Ad Feature by the Hong Kong Tourism Board
When you picture Hong Kong, no doubt a sea of futuristic skyscrapers aglitter with a thousand lights comes to mind.
But beyond that iconic cityscape lies a wealth of characterful neighbourhoods, many of which are lesser known to travellers, but treasured by locals.
Get to know the real Hong Kong and you’ll discover vibrant communities, exciting eateries, mesmerising heritage sites, secret beaches and an abundance of tropical green spaces at every turn.
What’s more, its compact size makes it easy to get around, whether you’re hopping on the Star Ferry, gliding along on the historic trams (known locally as “ding dings”) or simply wandering on foot.
Look beyond Hong Kong’s iconic cityscape and you’ll find a wealth of vibrant neighbourhoods
OLD TOWN CENTRAL
Spanning Central and Sheung Wan on Hong Kong Island, Old Town Central is a fascinating marriage of old and new. Expect to find historic temples lying shoulder to shoulder with cutting-edge art galleries and independent design stores.
The alleyways and cobbled streets that crisscross the neighbourhood have a storied past – it’s here, at Possession Point, that the British first arrived and settled in 1841.
A self-guided walking tour will take you on a trip through past and present, discovering how heritage buildings have been preserved and transformed into bustling cultural hubs.
A haven for arts and culture
Slip under the red lamp shades that crown the entrance of the Central Market, a restored space that dates back to 1842. Shop for retro Hong Kong souvenirs at the Hong Kong Tram Store or try a locally brewed ale at Mak’s Beer.
Get a shot of culture at PMQ, formerly known as Police Married Quarters – a dormitory for rank-and-file police officers that has now become a creative hub for local artists and designers, offering design boutiques, pop-up stores and restaurants.
Spanning the Central and Sheung Wan areas of the city, Old Town Central is a fascinating marriage of old and new
Next, head to Tai Kwun, another piece of living history. This complex of historic buildings once served as a police station and prison, but today it houses a colourful carousel of art exhibitions and creative workshops.
Art aficionados will find their place in the lofty H Queen’s building, home to five world-renowned galleries. After perusing the exhibits, stop by Vive Cake Boutique for another visual feast – beautifully decorated desserts created by local cake designer Vivien Lau.
Take in the siren-red shades of the dragon-themed Shingo Art mural on Shelley Street or admire the much-photographed mural of old townhouses by Hong Kong based British street artist Alex Croft.
There’s plenty of brand-new street art to discover too, from a cartoonish piece by artist Mooncasket to an uplifting, nature-inspired mural by French street artist Elsa Jean de Dieu.
Learn about Hong Kong’s history as you wander through the Pak Tsz Lane Park, a peaceful site away from the hustle and bustle that pays tribute to the 1911 revolution that brought down the Qing Dynasty.
Stroll down Tai Ping Shan Street, a road lined with beautiful temples. The red-hued Kwong Fook I Tsz temple, for instance, is rich in history, having served as an ancestral temple for migrant families and a shelter for the ailing in the city.
Marvel over the carved woodwork and delicate murals of the Man Mo Temple, which dates back more than 150 years.
Admire the much-photographed mural of old townhouses by Hong Kong based British street artist Alex Croft
Next, hunt for antiques on Upper Lascar Row and for retro crockery at the old-school homeware shop Chu Wing Kee. Another must-visit is Linva Tailor, a dressmaker who rose to fame after creating costumes for hit films.
Best brews
Sip on a drink made from locally roasted coffee beans at the trendy Stain+ cafe, its facade embellished with ever-changing murals, or visit KAFFE, Hong Kong’s only Swedish coffee shop.
For a caffeine hit of a different kind, nurse a cup of Hong Kong-style milk tea, swirled with evaporated milk and sugar, at Lan Fong Yuen. Make sure to look up – it sits under the 800m long Central–Mid-Levels escalator, famed as the longest outdoor covered escalator system in the world.
A destination for foodies
Old Town Central’s spectacular food scene ranges from traditional to contemporary, with family-run bakeries and dim sum eateries juxtaposed with lauded Michelin-starred restaurants and sleek cocktail bars.
Gourmands will love the Michelin-starred Duddell’s, a sophisticated space that puts a modern spin on traditional Cantonese fare.
Dine on dim sum at the 1930s Luk Yu Tea House or head to the Sing Heung Yuen food stall for its famous tomato noodle soup and crispy buns with lemon and honey.
Have a sweet tooth? Make a trip to the Tai Cheong Bakery to try one of its egg tarts and see why it’s been a beloved Hong Kong institution for more than 60 years.
For a caffeine hit of a different kind, nurse a cup of Hong Kong-style milk tea, swirled with evaporated milk and sugar, at Lan Fong Yuen
Pick up more sweet treats from Chan Yee Jai, a 1920s confectioner that sells everything from almond cookies to traditional pineapple cakes.
When cocktail hour hits, head to Room 309, a secret bar hidden in The Pottinger hotel – you must ask for a special key card to get inside. Lovers of literature will cherish The Old Man Bar, inspired by the life and times of novelist Ernest Hemingway.
Behind an umbrella-shop facade lies the ultra-cool cocktail bar Foxglove, where live music fills the air and revellers sip on Foxglove Martinis. Or for a touch of whimsy, pop by The Iron Fairies bar, where cocktails are served under a ceiling festooned with 10,000 butterflies.
Nearby neighbourhoods
After soaking up the charm of Old Town Central, make sure to check out its neighbouring districts. Causeway Bay is known as a beacon of chic, courtesy of its glossy glass towers, designer stores and glamorous rooftop bars.
Or head to Southern Neighbourhood, a peaceful idyll on the south side of Hong Kong Island where you can picnic in leafy parks and go surfing in Big Wave Bay.
SHAM SHUI PO
Gain insight into the Hong Kong that locals know and love in Sham Shui Po, a culturally rich neighbourhood in the heart of Kowloon.
This traditionally working-class, industrial district is packed with lively street markets, traditional temples, decades-old shops and mouth-watering eateries serving world-class cuisine for a bargain price.
Recent years have seen young creatives subtly make their mark on the neighbourhood, with galleries, contemporary restaurants and striking street art adding to its unique charm.
Gain insight into the Hong Kong that locals know and love in Sham Shui Po, a culturally rich neighbourhood in the heart of Kowloon (Picture credit: CP Creatives Derry Ainsworth)
For a slice of calm in the district, climb to the summit of Garden Hill and take in transfixing views of the buildings below, a scene that’s all the more stunning as the sun sets.
Retail therapy
A shopper’s utopia, the neighbourhood’s street markets are a must-visit. Apliu Street is the place to be for electronics, selling everything from hi-tech audio gadgets to edgy mobile phone accessories, while Fuk Wing Street’s stalls stock toys and colourful stationery, earning it the nickname of Toy Street.
Make like a local and amble through the Pei Ho Street wet market, where stalls are laden with plump fruits and packaged snacks.
For truly unique souvenirs, there are countless specialist stores to check out. Fashion enthusiasts should venture to the Wah Ngai Canvas store – it’s here that the blue, red and white shopping bag, a Hong Kong staple, originated.
Pay a visit to Bo Wah Effigies, which crafts delicate effigies that are burned in traditional Chinese rituals. Stop by the 19th-century Sun Nga Shing Umbrella Store, known for its unique umbrella repair service, or sift through boxes of records at Vinyl Hero.
Fine stationery awaits at Muze Pens, a dreamland for calligraphers and writers alike that got its start in the 1950s.
Have a passion for gaming? Then the Golden Computer Centre and Arcade, home to the latest games and gadgets, is a must-see.
Pay a visit to Bo Wah Effigies, which crafts delicate effigies that are burned in traditional Chinese rituals
Learn about Hong Kong’s textile heritage as you shop for brightly coloured trimmings on Nam Cheong Street, or ‘Ribbon Street’. Ki Lung Street, meanwhile, is known for its button shops and one-of-a-kind fabric market, making it a treasured haunt for fashion designers.
Offering chic boutiques and curated pop-ups, D2 Place is another hub for shoppers, complete with a weekend market that shines a spotlight on local industry.
Get creative
Sham Shui Po has a thriving community of artisans and artists, as you’ll discover as you move through its ateliers and cafes, many of which offer workshops.
Stock up on fragrant bars of handmade soap at Savon Workshop and stick around for a class on mastering the art of soap-making. Next, learn how to make soft leather bracelets or handbags at the Aurora Leathercraft store or try your hand at a ceramics workshop at the Mudheytong Gallery.
Scope out the inspiring exhibits at the Jockey Club Creative Arts Centre, a former factory complex, or simply look to the streets for inspiration – several years ago, the arts organisation HKwalls transformed the neighbourhood with vivid murals painted by artists from Hong Kong and overseas, turning the district into an open-air museum. A special map highlights each artwork – use it as your guide.
A gourmet hotspot
Eat like a local on a walking tour with Hong Kong Foodie Tours, getting a taste of the neighbourhood’s time-honoured restaurants and destination food stalls.
Start your day with a hand-drip coffee from Press The Button or stop by the photogenic Colour Brown x CoffeeGoOn, a haven for Instagrammers and coffee connoisseurs alike.
Drop by The Soulroom cafe for a coffee and you can enjoy an astrology or tarot card reading as you sip.
Follow the advice of Michelin’s street food guide and pay a visit to Man Kee Cart Noodles, known for its delicious noodle dishes made to order.
Later, pull up a seat at Tim Ho Wan, a haven for Michelin recommended dim sum. You can’t leave without tucking into the eatery’s famous baked barbecue pork buns.
Feast on beautiful hand-wrapped dumplings at Yuen Fong Dumpling Store or devote an evening to the traditional Lau Sum Kee Noodle restaurant, where plates of flavoursome noodles are made from scratch.
The Kung Wo Beancurd Factory has been a much-adored fixture in Hong Kong since 1960 and it’s easy to see why – its signature beancurd puddings are as silky as can be.
Sham Shui Po is packed with eateries that serve world-class cuisine for a bargain price
It’s imperative to try one of the famous beef and egg sandwiches at Sun Hang Yuen, while the Wai Kee Noodle Cafe is another local secret, renowned for its pig’s liver noodles.
To experience a traditional Chinese-style steak house, sink your teeth into Flying Eagle, a family-run joint that’s been feeding locals since the 1970s. Leave room for dessert and try the bowl puddings, crafted with sugar and red beans, at Luk Lam Dessert.
Nearby neighbourhoods
Explore Kowloon City, a diverse melting pot on the eastern half of the Kowloon peninsula that’s filled with fascinating heritage buildings and an airport-turned-recreational hub.
There’s also the uniquely landlocked district of Wong Tai Sin, known for its array of beautiful temples, and the neon lights of Yau Tsim Mong, a hotspot for night markets and bustling eateries.
However you spend your time, it will make for a travel experience that stays with you forever.
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