‘I visited Belgrade on new BA flight – beers cost £2 and clubs open all night’
Serbia’s capital Belgrade is a complex city with a long and fascinating history of occupation and revolution – and one most of us in Britain have never seen. But that could change now British Airways has opened a route there from Heathrow three times a week.
It's a great hotspot for Brits to explore – just a couple of hours away by plane and filled with exciting things to see and do. Not least including incredibly cheap beer from just £2 a pint.
Belgrade’s culture and architecture has been shaped by many influences, from the Slavs to the Ottomans and Yugoslav communism. Here’s our guide for the best things to get up to in the ‘white city’.
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What to see
The National Museum, as its name suggests, is the place to get a handle on Belgrade’s past. Its collection includes bone fragments from our ancient human ancestors of 400,000 years ago, Roman artefacts from the empire’s occupation, and paintings that reveal stories of Serbia’s social history.
The Belgrade Fortress and citadel stand in a park with plenty of space for children to play and great views of the Danube river. There’s an impressive collection of cannons and tanks, and tennis courts sit within the old moat – probably not surprising since this is the country that gave us Ana Ivanovic and Novak Djokovic.
The Royal Palaces can be accessed by taking a guided tour booked through the tourism office. One of the residences, the Royal Palace, is the home of Serbia’s Crown Prince Alexander and wife Katherine, who have lived there since returning to Serbia in 2001.
Visitors are closely chaperoned, but it’s worth a visit to see where royals threw parties and plotted behind ‘whispering’ fountains, and a church that suffered desecration during the communist era.
Head to the city centre, and St Sava is one of the world’s largest churches and makes for a jaw-dropping sight. Step inside and you need sunglasses to withstand the dazzle from gold tiles, chandeliers, mosaics – the place is dripping with the stuff.
What to eat
Fresh, Serbian produce with crunchy salads paired with rich meats and cheese are common fare in Belgrade’s eateries. Not ideal for vegetarians, though you will find vegan-specific fast-food joints.
Head to Manufaktura for charcuterie plates of meats and cheese, or the delicious cevapi (beef and pork meat kebabs). You’ll pay around £25 per head for a meal with wine.
For lunch, try Restoran Hyde Park which has a kooky orangery-style interior and tasty chicken Karadordeva snicla (similar to schnitzel). Alternatively, find a bakery that serves reform torte – a decadent walnut cake with thick layers of chocolate cream filling.
Where to drink
Locals say Belgrade is a 24-hour city because there’s always an event on, a bar open or a club playing thumping beats. If you want to party the night away, head to the riverfront and board a splav – a club or bar that sits on a floating barge in the river. You might even spot the splav that sank due to too much dancing!
Leila Records is a funky bar/record shop where you can buy vinyls while you sip on £5 cocktails. Meanwhile, Blaznavac Kafe Bar has outdoor terrace seating, a vintage car to take photos on, and offers a delicious melon martini that will wow you with its sourness. Just be aware that smoking is legal indoors in Serbia – and bars are no exception.
Drinks in Belgrade are cheap with beer from £2 and wine from around £3. Grab a cheap domestic beer in Republic Square and watch buskers and dancers into the night. The local spirit is rakija and it’s a bit like paint stripper – you try that one at your own risk.
Where to stay
Hotel Museum in Republic Square is clean and spacious. You’ll get a tasty Serbian breakfast of salads, cheeses, cold meats, pastries, yogurts, fried eggs and sausages and bacon. It’s a great base for exploring the city and there’s a cafe next door that sells pastries for £1.
My room had a double bed with separate duvets in the European style, a mini fridge with drinks, a great shower with powerful water pressure through two shower heads, and a huge wardrobe. There was also an armchair and a desk for relaxing, plus a safe for valuables, free slippers and toiletries.
The air con was temperamental but that allowed me to check the customer service – and staff passed the test. Rooms from £105 a night. hotelmuseum.rs
A day out
Belgrade’s rail station is your ticket to nearby towns. Novi Sad is 36 minutes and an £11 return away and its streets are packed with boutiques – fans of leatherwork can buy handmade bags and wallets here.
The town’s Petrovaradin Fortress is home to the annual summer EXIT festival which has featured dance music stars such as David Guetta. Sremski Karlovci can be reached in under an hour for £4 and has beautiful 17th and 18th century architecture. There are vineyards nearby such as Mackov Podrum, where you can eat, and drink Traminac, which was served at Queen Elizabeth’s coronation.
British Airways flies from Heathrow to Belgrade, Serbia, three times per week, with return fares from £104. ba.com More info at serbia.travel/en
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