Inside luxury Maldives resort with overwater villas, manta rays and and yachts
The pilot is bare-footed and beaming with sunglasses perched on top of his head. He turns and gives a thumbs up, pushing down on pedals and lifting us into the air.
I clasp on to the seaplane’s handrests and leave my stomach behind. What a way to start a holiday in paradise.
The journey is about 45 minutes from Velana International Airport in the Maldives’ capital Malé, which gives plenty of time to gawp at golden islands in the Indian Ocean.
I say a silent prayer and it feels like we’re in heaven as we touch down in the surf.
A congregation of cheerful hotel staff greets us at Maamunagau, a mile-long island that’s home to the InterContinental Maldives Resort.
They bang drums and hand out icy flannels to wipe away the jetlag.
Then it’s time for a tour of my new home – a dreamy overwater villa that comes with two floors, spectacular views and a bottle of bubbly on ice.
As tempting as it is, I resist the urge to jump straight into the massive bed, and head out to explore the island.
Rays of sunshine
Maamunagau can be found on the idyllic southernmost tip of Raa Atoll, which is right on the edge of a UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve.
It has its own natural lagoon, where juvenile manta rays shelter from predators between December and April.
The resort provides a base for the Manta Trust – a UK-founded charity dedicated to protecting and researching these endangered gentle giants.
To educate me on the 13ft rays, marine ecologist Farah whizzes through a quick presentation. Then it’s time to see the charismatic creatures in the flesh.
Ten minutes after setting off in a boat, we spot a horn-shaped fin popping out of the waves.
Unlike related sharks or stingrays, mantas have no teeth or stingers, so I don’t feel too nervous about slipping into the water. In a scene that wouldn’t look out of place in a Disney film, more rays join the party. They glide through the water, expertly guzzling plankton and showing their ghostly bellies as they dodge snorkellers.
If that wasn’t special enough, even more critters come out at night…
Must sea
Not many of us can say we’ve been snorkelling after the sun sets, especially not in pleasant 29C temperatures.
But Maamunagau has its own house reef where you can take a dip before dinner.
Armed with flippers, snorkels and torches, we head out in the surf that never sleeps.
Listen out for a constant clicking under the water, which our conductor Nikita describes as the “orchestra of the sea”. It’s not your ears playing tricks, it’s actually the sound of frenzied fish feeding in the reef below. Shine your light downwards to see vibrant blue parrotfish snoozing among the coral, reef sharks sidling past and a giant moray eel slithering along the floor.
Then, after drying off on the shore, buckle up for a natural light show. Bioluminescent plankton crashes with the waves, creating gorgeous bright spots that contrast with the clear night.
The microscopic organisms illuminate footprints as you walk along the sand and light up the skin like glow sticks.
The suite life
After hours in the water, I head back to my overwater villa and straight into a piping hot bath.
Hotel curator Amaan popped bubbles and petals into the tub just in time for my arrival. It’s just what I need to warm up, unwind and wash the salt from my hair.
While soaking I can see 50 shades of blue out of my panoramic window – from the aquamarine infinity pool, to the sapphire lagoon and indigo sky.
Invigorated and recharged, it’s time to head out and regain the calories I burned by snorkelling. Island life means there’s plenty of fresh fish to dive into – whether that be freshly caught lobsters, oysters or reef fish. But the Maldivian tuna curry reels me in with its coriander seed fragrance and aromatic flavours of hot chilli, pandan leaves and coconut flesh.
Ending the night with something sweet, I embrace the tropical atmosphere with a refreshing bowl of lychee sorbet and a sauvignon blanc.
Just relax
With last night’s wine lingering on my lips, downtime is needed.
I cycle along to the AVI Spa, which is located right on the coastline so you can hear waves crashing as you relax.
One of the treatment options on offer is chakra psychic healing with Rajeshwari Amol Nerurkar – a Certified Reiki Master – so I book in. Before I know it, I’m half naked and lying under a crisp sheet with a cool flannel across my eyes.
Unlike a bog-standard massage you’d get on a romantic holiday, this involves no oils and very little touching. Rajeshwari hovers her palms over my body ominously. And initially, I feel absolutely nothing.
It’s not until she places stones on my torso and bangs on three singing bowls, that my skin starts to tingle.
Then for the psychic part.
Unlike talking therapy, psychic reiki masters make evaluations based on how you react to the treatment.
My body language dictates I’m a control freak with a lot of frustration, apparently.
I have no idea whether my chakras were aligned by the end – but I’m so chilled out that I don’t really care.
Fin-credible!
There are plenty of ways to ride the Indian Ocean waves, from paddleboarding to jet-skiing and wakeboarding.
But to celebrate the end of an incredible trip, I decide to go the luxury route by heading out on a sunset cruise.
Waiters hand out drinks and canapés including caviar-laden sushi, peppery wontons and zesty lemon tarts.
But before I’ve even had a chance to take a bite, a pod of spinner dolphins joins us.
Dozens of the playful creatures race the yacht, weaving, bobbing and putting on a spectacular show.
The crew claps and cheers as dolphins leap out of the water, living up to their spinner name by twirling and lapping up all the attention.
Our champagne glasses remain completely untouched as we take it all in.
Then the dolphins give us a final wave, flipping their tails as we toast an incredible trip.
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