San Diego’s Barrio Logan Remains a Stronghold of Chicano Culture
San Diego is often shrugged off as a one-note beach town, but that description hardly captures the complex character of this city just above the U.S.- Mexico border. Its history is inextricably tied to the nation to its south and to the civil rights struggles of its Chicano population; and nowhere is that heritage more apparent than in the neighborhood of Barrio Logan. Established by refugees of the Mexican Revolution in the early 1900s, it was the site of massive social justice protests in the ’70s and continues to serve as the city’s epicenter of Chicano civic and cultural engagement. Though it has gentrified in the last few years, many of the newer shops and restaurants that have sprouted along Logan Avenue, its main drag, are independent businesses with second- and even third-generation owners. From its vibrant street art to the revved-up lowriders and craft beers inspired by Mexican culinary traditions, Barrio Logan is a place where residents put their passions—and origins—on full, brilliant display.
Get your bearings
Chicano Park, which sits beneath the San Diego-Coronado Bridge, is the true heart of Barrio Logan. More than 80 murals painted by Chicano artists illustrate where this community came from: You’ll see depictions of Aztec warriors and artists like Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera alongside scenes from the Mexican Revolution.
See some art
Since 2013, both established and up-and-coming artists have graced the walls of La Bodega Gallery, a light-filled exhibition space that routinely hosts film screenings and performances. The team here also runs La Pulga Flea Market every Saturday along National Avenue; count on finding rare and one-of-a-kind jewelry, clothes, and antiques, much of it vintage or handmade by local artisans.
Where to grab a beer
San Diego has more than 150 craft beer pubs, but none are as barrier-busting as Border X Brewing, the city’s first Mexican American-owned brewery. Try the Horchata Golden Stout, laced with the vanilla and cinnamon notes for which the Mexican drink is famous; or the Blood Saison, inspired by agua de jamaica, a hibiscus tea that’s popular across Latin America.
Order a pick-me-up
The menu at Por Vida Cafe is a love letter to Mexico: Order a peanut-y mazapan latte for a buzz or the seasonal spicy sandía limonada for a burn. On the walls, you’ll spot paintings of the Virgin of Guadalupe and the affirming statement #heretostay, plus a rotating selection of local artwork.
Treasure hunting
Simón Limón (an expression similar to “okey dokey”) is packed with wares made by independent artists from both sides of the border. Owner Alexandra Perez Demma, who grew up in Cabo San Lucas, selects every item, from hand-painted clay chimineas to pressed-flower earrings. You can also shop Perez Demma’s own jewelry line, which she creates out of a private studio nearby.
Food crawl
Hungry people have been lining up for mind-blowing eats in Barrio Logan since at least 1933, when Las Cuatro Milpas, a legendary taqueria that hand-rolls its masa each morning, first opened its doors. These days, the old guard is joined by new recruits: At Barrio Dogg, chef Pablo Rios serves his own twist on the Tijuana-style bacon-wrapped hot dogs beloved throughout Baja California.
This article appeared in the April 2021 issue of Condé Nast Traveler. Subscribe to the magazine here.
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